Selma

Selma makes open sandwiches that build on the classics rather than repeating them. The rye bread is the foundation, but the toppings have been thought through by someone who wants more than herring and egg.

It is the easiest way into smørrebrød if you did not grow up with it: the dishes are less formal than in the old lunch cellars, and you can work through several in one sitting. The kitchen also serves in the evening, which the classic lunch restaurants do not.

Lunch from half past eleven to four, Wednesday to Monday, and dinner from half past six to eleven, Wednesday to Saturday. Closed Tuesday. That is worth keeping straight: lunch runs six days, dinner only four. Torvehallerne and Nørreport are a few minutes away.

The price is the lowest of the city's good smørrebrød places at lunch. That makes Selma the obvious choice if you want to try the kitchen without a full dinner bill.