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Aamanns 1921

RestaurantIndre By, Copenhagen

8.8Worth the detourOur score · Worth rerouting for if you are anywhere near the neighbourhood.

Open sandwiches under stone arches on Niels Hemmingsens Gade — lunch and dinner.

Open sandwiches and snaps on the marble table under the stone arches — Aamanns 1921

Illustration made with AI

Adam Aamann has turned smørrebrød into a kitchen that can stand being treated as one: the flour is milled in house, the herring cured for months, the herbs for the snaps foraged. The room is tall and bright, with old stone arches and a terrazzo floor.

The rye bread is the foundation, and that is where the difference shows — everything else is built on top of it. The herring is what the kitchen points to itself, and it comes in several versions that change with the season. With it come the house snaps, made for the food rather than the other way round.

Lunch runs every day from half past eleven to five with last orders at four, and dinner every day from six — until half past ten Monday to Thursday and until eleven Friday to Sunday. The Michelin guide recommends the place without giving it a star, which fits: it is ambitious, but you can get a table.

It costs more than classic lunch smørrebrød, and you can taste why. Choose it when the open sandwiches are the main event of the evening rather than a pause in the middle of the day.