Restaurant Schønnemann

Schønnemann is lunch in its most Danish form: a low-ceilinged cellar, white paper tablecloths, the stjerneskud, and a snaps list longer than the food menu. The waiters have been there for years and recommend without hedging.

The house has served open sandwiches since 1877 and has built a snaps collection that is now part of the visit. Ask for help choosing — it is faster than reading the whole list, and they get it right. The warm liver pâté with bacon and mushrooms is the one people come back for, and the stjerneskud is the house's calling card.

Lunch only, half past eleven to five, every day. Book a table, even on a Tuesday: it is one of the most sought-after lunch addresses in the city, and there are not many tables.

The price is a proper restaurant bill, not a lunch break. In return it is the place to take someone from out of town who needs to taste what smørrebrød is — and the only one here where the snaps matters as much as the food.