Palægade

Palægade makes classic smørrebrød without rewriting it: roast beef with remoulade, the stjerneskud, herring in several versions. The restaurant opened in 2016 with the stated ambition of making the best open sandwiches in Denmark, and it shows in the details.

The cake trolley is wheeled round after lunch, and it is worth the wait. In the evening the house changes character and serves a Danish-French card instead of smørrebrød — it is effectively two restaurants in one room, and most people come for the first.

Lunch every day from half past eleven to five, dinner Monday to Saturday from six. Last lunch arrival is quarter to three, so come in good time if there are several of you.

This is a proper lunch restaurant with white linen and waiters who know what they are recommending — not somewhere you drop into. The price follows, and in return nobody hurries you out of your chair.