Marv & Ben

Marv & Ben has been on Snaregade in the old town long enough to have become a fixture. The kitchen is Scandinavian and works with the whole animal — the name, which means marrow and bone, is not accidental.

The cellar is low, the stone is old, and there are enough candles that people speak more quietly than they do on the street outside. The menu follows the season, and the kitchen uses the parts of an animal others leave behind. Hand the choice to them if you are in doubt: that is where the house is at its best.

They open at six, Tuesday to Saturday, and serve evenings only. Snaregade is one of the narrowest streets in the city and there are not many tables, so book ahead.

This is an evening restaurant in the proper sense — for two people with something to talk about, or four who want to sit for a while. The price is above everyday, below the starred places, and there is no dress code.