POPL

POPL is the most expensive burger in the city and the only one served medium-rare with the food authority's disclaimer written out on the menu. That is a signal of how much the kitchen trusts the meat: organic Danish beef and bacon cured and smoked in house.

The cheeseburger, the hamburger and the vegetarian all cost 150 kroner — the same price, which is rare and says something about how the house sees the meat-free option. It is built on quinoa tempeh, not an industrial patty. The dry-aged burger on sixty-day beef costs 250, a set seasonal menu 450 per person and fries 55.

The kitchen works with fermentation techniques it describes as coming from noma's laboratory.

Note the lunch window: Saturday and Sunday from twelve to two, and no other days. Turn up at noon on a Wednesday and it is closed.